Summer Habit of a Chinese Mandarin in 1700

by Thomas Jefferys

Thomas Jefferys' print of the "Summer Habit of a Chinese Mandarin" provides interesting insight into Qing Dynasty dress from the perspective of Europeans obsessed with the mysterious Chinoiserie and the carefully delineated ranks of Chinese officials.

In this image, one sees how elegantly balanced was the seasonal clothing of Chinese officials. "The Summer Habit" is characterized by its lightness, as its wearers had to withstand the humid climate of the East. The Mandarin depicted is shown dressed in a wide-sleeved robe made of silk and probably a pao. His head is adorned with the traditional conical hat made of woven bamboo or straw and a gemstone that indicated his rank.

This piece of costume did not have to deal with bulky fur clothes. Instead, it showcased gracefulness and flexibility of movement. What makes this print even more interesting from a historian's point of view is the artist's depiction of the elaborate "rank badges" worn on the chest. These were the square embroidered patches known as bufang and symbolizing the specific rank of an official.