Habit of the Grand Seignior in 1749

by Thomas Jefferys

This 1749 etching by Thomas Jefferys gives an interesting glimpse at the strict social stratification and luxurious attire of the Ottoman Empire of mid-18th century. The etching is entitled Habits of the Grand Seignior (also called The Grand Signior) and it shows the Sultan, "the Grand Seignior", dressed in his full ceremonial regalia.

Jefferys acted as a visual intermediary between the Orient and the Occident. The 1749 copper plate engraving is not only a representation of clothing but also of geopolitical prestige. He has skillfully captured the regal kaftan and the towering headdress, which conveyed total power.

The Georgian print is somewhat factual in style. It is representative of the European fascination with “Turquerie” of the 18th century, which was considered the epitome of luxury as well as "otherness". The sharp lines of the etching create the impression of the richness of ermine furs and layers of silks worn by the Grand Seignior of the Topkapi Palace.