Habit of a French Gentleman in 1626

by Thomas Jefferys

The 1626 plate below is the epitome of the French Gentleman during the time of King Louis XIII, when fashion was not only about self-expression but also served as a political tool. Gone were the stiff and formal styles of the previous era, and the character portrayed here wears a cavalier style dress. The gentleman wears a waisted doublet with slashed sleeves that expose the linen underneath it, which is an indication of wealth and ease of mannerism called "sprezzatura."

His dress is complete with a falling lace collar, substituting the old-fashioned ruff, and wide-topped funnel boots indicating the readiness for a life on horseback and court intrigues. This illustration can be considered a visual evidence for the "Habit" of the French gentlemen, who dressed in silk, lace, and leather to define the European standards of men's elegance.