Habit of an Indian Chief in 1749

by Thomas Jefferys

This striking image, entitled "The Habit of an Indian Chief," comes from A Collection of the Dresses of Different Nations, written by Thomas Jefferys. The print is taken from Jefferys' collection published in London in 1749 at a time when curiosity about native customs was colliding with a realization of indigenous political skill.

"The Chief" wears a combination of clothing influenced both by native customs and new influences brought by Europeans, representing what historian Richard White refers to as the "middle ground" of 18th century North America. Observe the fine detailing on the fringed buckskin, the presence of a tomahawk, and the studied posture that combines "noble" calmness with Enlightenment taste.

Jefferys' depiction of natives during the age of exploration must be understood within the context of a time when the British crown still considered native chieftains to be important political allies.