Habit of a Bashaw of Three Tails in 1749

by Thomas Jefferys

By the mid-eighteenth century, Europeans were at their most fascinated with the Orient, which is well documented in Thomas Jefferys’ artwork. A Pasha of three tails was the highest form of provincial governors, next only to the Grand Vizier. The “three tails” is in reference to the tugh, which is essentially a horse hair flag placed on a golden staff and used to denote the rank of military officials while marching through the ranks.

The portrayal by Jefferys is a complete depiction of the Bashaw at his grandest. He wears robes that are both long and elaborate, created to emphasize the Bashaw’s imposing figure. His turban, which is either jeweled or made from the finest muslin, denotes his close relationship with the Sultan himself. This piece does not only serve as a fashionable representation of the time but is also a historical representation of Turquerie, in which Western artists tried to classify and understand the mysterious East.